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Rick Owens says he’ll be aback to aerodrome bombast, fog and pyrotechnics as anon as it’s accessible and appropriate. He thinks such displays are “essential” to fashion.

“I consistently cycle my eyes at appearance videos because they’re aloof too controlled. There’s no aspect of risk,” he accepted during a Zoom call. (By contrast, he gave a shoutout to Olivier Rousteing for his alive Balmain-sur-Seine barge loaded with music and archival couture, which he begin charming.)

Owens’ addition to the aboriginal online copy of Men’s Appearance Week is fly-on-the-wall footage of himself and archetypal Tyrone Susman accomplishing accessories in the designer’s Paris studio: two able-bodied men with bedraggled beard absolutely adequate in their own skin, drop-crotch pants and deficient jersey tops. Aggregate was ad-lib and captured on two anchored surveillance cameras, their badinage generally deadened by bass throb.

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It was arresting to watch because the clothes were so good. While Owens reprised the Frankenstein amateur from aftermost division — not about power, but rather “defiance in the face of threat,” his appearance addendum analyze — they seemed added attainable here, bound with allegory covering accept patches, or curve of accumbent stitches. Added geometric shapes, inlaid into lapels or placed forth the collarbone on sweaters, added activity and clear zing.

High-waisted pants with a low bend accentuated the abundant silhouette, which brought to apperception Seventies glam rockers. Yet aggregate acquainted added attainable this division and occasionally looked familiar, at atomic for diehard admirers and appearance fanatics.

Owens gave a new circuit to the “membrane T-shirts” aboriginal apparent for bounce 2018, actuality with a coast U-neckline. And the cobweb catchbasin acme reprise an aspect from his abatement 2012 collection. “Bringing accomplished account aback is not the affliction affair in the world,” he demurred.

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There were affluence of new account though. Owens afraid with low-slung pants in country-club checks; chiffon jackets and close sweaters in surfer stripes, and some sparkly items in amplitude denim covered in sequins. (Always refreshingly honest, Owens acclaimed that the sequins were fabricated from recycled plastic, which fueled agitation in his flat “whether the use of recycled artificial glorifies application a baneful actual that there are added options for, or award a way to reclaim article that already exists.”)

Story continues

Owens additionally accepted that he mulled befitting bounce 2021 beneath wraps and assuming instead a new adapt of his abatement collection, which he had additionally adapted on Susman with the aforementioned wall-mounted cameras. He confused apparatus at the 11th hour. “I realized, for bigger or worse, the apple has gotten acclimated to accepting previews. You can’t aloof booty that away. So I am afraid with the approved arrangement afterwards all.”

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Hallelujah for that, and fingers beyond for a bang of bluff appear September.

Launch Gallery: Rick Owens Men’s Bounce 2021

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